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The Power of Wilderness – ‘nature in a pristine state, untouched by humanity’

But wilderness means different things for different people. For some it’s an uninhabitable place home to wild beasts waiting to attack you. For others, it fosters romantic visions of African sunsets and gin and tonics. For modern hunter-gatherers, the wilderness is a regular source of food, medicine, and resources. And for many, it’s a place to reconnect with the divine.

In reality, the wilderness is our original home and it made us who we are today.

Homo sapiens have existed for around 300,000 years, and for 95% of this history we were deeply connected with nature for our survival. If we liken these 300,000 years to a 24-hour day, our life with technology, farming, and living in organised villages, towns, and cities spans only about one hour. In many ways, we remain closer to our hunter-gatherer roots than to our modern selves.

It’s the reason why people are drawn to go on safari in Africa, climb mountains, walk trails, swim in rivers, or simply take a detour through a city park. At a deep psychological level, we remember a time when nature provided for our needs, food, water, cover, entertainment, and spirituality.

We shared critical relationships with the plants and animals, like the greater honeyguide bird – a symbol of one such ancient bond with nature. We may have forgotten, yet the bird still remembers the days of our cooperation.

Five years ago, my perspective radically changed when I moved to a town environment. Though Pietermaritzburg is not a big city, it is alive with the usual buzz of urban life. And while it did take a bit of time, eventually, perhaps sadly, I adapted to a life as a visitor to nature.

Whenever I return to the bush for my work, the transition between the two worlds is so stark, and I cannot help but notice a sense of calm that comes over me within a short time of arrival. This is not a subjective feeling – even my Whoop device registers a noticeable improvement in my heart rate variability.

The peace and quiet that is associated with the wilderness allows our minds to rest and to transcend our daily anxiety-based thoughts and obligations. I believe our subconscious recognises the sights, sounds and scents of nature – and is reassured.

It’s like returning to a place you’ve always known.

With the distractions gone, our minds can begin to quieten, and we can turn our attention inwards. Questions such as What would I do if I weren’t afraid? become common in this state of mind. Personally, I always feel a great sense of life’s prospects when I’m in the bush.

In this way, the wilderness will challenge you to confront yourself.

Sleeping out in nature allows you to hear its distinct sounds – the call of birds, the chirp of insects, the roar of lions and the whooping of hyaenas. Occasionally, the nighttime movements of a leopard are given away by monkeys calling from the trees near the camp.

The following morning is an opportunity to follow its tracks and see where it went and what it did. This is where an expert tracker comes into their own. And if you watch carefully, you will see that tracking is a showcase of deep technical prowess and artistic expression.

The coolness of dawn and the heat of the noonday sun get you attuned to the rhythm of nature. You begin to share the same active tempo as the animals. The rhythm is ancient, and your body begins to adjust without you even realising.

The more frequently you immerse yourself in the wilderness, the more noticeable and lingering the effect.

If this resonates with you, consider visiting one of our KrugerUntamed tented camps. Both the Tshokwane River Camp and Satara Plains Camp are situated in vast wilderness areas inside Kruger National Park, and they offer the ideal settings for complete wilderness immersion.

Migration in Kruger National Park: The Annual Zebra & Wildebeest Journey

Kruger National Park is a landscape shaped by incredible geological diversity, from ancient granite formations to the basalt plains of the central region. Some of the rocks in the Park are among the oldest exposed rocks on Earth, dating back about 3 billion years.

About 30 years ago, section ranger Ted Whitfield observed a notable local movement that he termed a ‘mini migration’ involving zebra and wildebeest. While this migration might be less known globally, it is as significant as other more famous migrations across Africa. Ted noted that during the winter months, these animals trekked southward, following the fertile eastern plains of the Park.

The basalt plains are known for their nutrient-rich soil, making them highly productive. This fertility produces sweet grass that sustains large herds of plains game. Naturally, these abundant herds also attract predators. Central to this activity is the Satara area, particularly around the Mavumbye River, where the KrugerUntamed Satara Plains Camp is located.

The migration of zebra and wildebeest in Kruger National Park begins in May, initiated by the dry winter conditions in the northern regions. As the grasses die back, these animals start their southward journey in search of better grazing, typically arriving on the Mondolozi plains, just north of Lower Sabie, around July.

It’s no secret that the Satara regions boasts the highest density of lion in the Park. They are quick to capitalise on the arrival of the zebra and wildebeest herds. This interplay between predator and prey plays a vital role in preserving the ecological balance of the Park. It embodies the untamed spirit of Kruger Park, which is what makes it so extraordinary.

Last week I watched a single lioness stalk a zebra. It moved with calculated stealth, and one could sense she was fully aware that a well-timed kick from the zebra could be lethal.  She was driven by hunger and desperation, but she had to carefully balance the risk of hunting a powerfully built zebra stallion. Ultimately, since she was hunting alone, she decided to abandon the hunt.

The Satara Plains Camp is ideally located to witness these thrilling hunts.

As the season shifts towards spring, the migration cycle begins anew, with animals returning to the granite plains, revitalised by seasonal rains. This perpetual cycle highlights the resilience and adaptability of the Park’s wildlife. Like all natural processes, this is not an exact science and is affected by rainfall and controlled burns in parts of the Park.

This annual migration in Kruger National Park is not just a movement of animals; it’s a dynamic event that sustains the Park’s ecosystem, showcasing the profound connection between the land and its inhabitants.

Cattle Herder to Safari Owners. Meet our partners, Alex & Renias

This is the first episode of a three-part series.

It’s a story of a dream. A fantasy perhaps…that came true.

I entered the world in 1975, far from where Renias Mhlongo’s journey began under a jackalberry tree in the greater Kruger National Park. Our origins diverged: his in the Shangaan hunter-gatherer traditions, and mine amongst the Cape’s cattle farms.

Yet, our childhoods whispered of future paths. Mine through games of hide-and-seek in the dunes of Plettenberg Bay. And Renias’s through “Xitumbelelani,” a Shangaan version, teaching the art of observation – and a prelude to his future as a world-renowned animal tracker.

The tumultuous backdrop of apartheid South Africa was a reality for Renias, especially when his father was falsely accused of poaching. An event that turned their lives upside down and had them removed from their land.

Renias remembers that fateful night the family fled to a settlement called Dixie. They waded through a river, as a little boy, Renias clutching onto the tail of a cow to pull himself through the water – as they trekked northwards into the unknown.

Our paths crossed at Londolozi Game Reserve 20 years later. The only common threads binding us were the echoes of hide-and-seek and perhaps an affinity for cows!

At Londolozi, we found a place where diverse cultures were poured together. Immersed in its incredible conservation ethos, we witnessed the power of unity driven by a clear, shared purpose.

Me and Renias at Londolozi, circa 1995.

Walking the ancient game paths of Londolozi, Renias and I were acutely aware of our differences, our fears, and our doubts about being thrown together in an unlikely partnership.

The name Mhlongo was already synonymous with legendary tracking, and under Renias’s wing, we soon became an ace leopard tracking team.

Renias, alongside his two brothers, was pivotal in pioneering wild leopard viewing at Londolozi. Until then, spotting one was pure luck. Their efforts made it far more likely to get sightings of calm leopards. They transformed the ancient craft of tracking into a legacy that drew countless visitors to the region.

But the heart wants what it wants, and ours wanted a different trail. Leaving behind secure posts at Londolozi, we left with a vision to establish a school for trackers – to restore ancient African animal tracking for the benefit of wildlife conservation.

Together with Gaynor Rupert, Tracker Academy was founded to empower young rural people. Over a decade later, the Academy has seen 266 graduates finding gainful employment in the conservation industry.

Renias is the inspiration for Tracker Academy, which has trained 266 rural, unemployed people in 14 years. And Gaynor Rupert made it all happen.

Our dream matured.

We wanted to create a sanctuary where these skills could flourish. A venue for our graduates to demonstrate their exceptional tracking skills to discerning travelers.

For fifteen years, we chased the elusive dream of our own game reserve – submitting tenders, negotiating with banks, and courting investors. We could track leopards, yet navigating the complex terrain of high finance eluded us!

Despite many rejections, Renias remained steadfast, believing it was his ancestors’ wish.

What started as an uneasy alliance at Londolozi had now grown into a deep kinship – forged through years of shared experiences. Over time the concept of ‘stronger together’ became obvious to us. In fact, it drove us.

In an ecotourism industry where true transformation is so scarce, we adopted the tenacity of a couple of honey badgers to prove it could be done. “Buti, we will dig even if the bees sting us,” was Ren’s best. We wanted to showcase the remarkable potential of South Africans unified by a clear purpose – in our industry.

Eventually, perseverance bore fruit with the establishment of Tshokwane River Camp in July 2023. One of the best days of our lives.

Now, the boy who once herded cattle on the dusty savanna a few kilometers away is a shareholder in a legitimate safari business (KrugerUntamed) that stands for more than profit—it stands for hope and unity.

The safari camp is not just a business; it’s a tangible representation of our shared vision and commitment to South Africa’s future.

The day we signed the shareholders’ agreement, Ren sent me this short WhatsApp, “Hi swi kumile. 🐆” (We found it).